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Here's some of the things I'm in awe of:
1) Google suggest - clearly a DHTML pop up layer populated from a database using something like xmlhttp - but I would love to get my hands on code to do something like that.
2)Google Maps Popup boxes with 3D sloping shadows - is that a CSS/DHTML trick, if so, where do you get the examples of stuff like that?
3)Google Maps scrolling - a similar principal I think to no.1) in that what seems to happen is that as you scroll on the map new images are loaded without needing a page refresh.
4)Gmail - The complexity in the interface is quite extraordinary, and the attention to detail, so that you can hide and view messages, those little markers that appear in the corner telling you which part of the message you are in - awesome!
Maybe Javascript will finally come back into fashion, and CSS purists will have to find another whipping boy.