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If you go up one level on Wood's site it's full of general Unicode information (and is an elegantly designed set of pages, too). I was really just looking for something to play with to learn more about the subject, and it would appear that the one genuinely big Unicode font (which would of course be the most fun) is Arial Unicode MS, which is only available for Windows, alas. It has more than 50,000 characters and is over 20MB. Cool.