Forum Moderators: not2easy
This is more for site graphics not an image gallery.
Any tips on this with a 35mm SLR? I don't have any special filters at the moment, and with the prices on imports, I don't have time to have them shipped.
Time of day?
Where the sunlight should be coming from to where I'm standing.
Film type?
Sunlight side-on should give you hard angles and contrast (should you want that) - of course, overhead will make things harsh but could also give some interesting effects.
Although he never really did much with buildings, Galen Rowell is great to read on light - Mountain Light opened my eyes to the natural use of it.
Film? I'll let those who are still using SLRs answer you there. If you are taking shots for a website, personally I would beg, borrow or steal a digital camera. Then you can be as creative as you want and dump the stuff that doesn't work.
Not cheap UK prices start at £140 GBP but wow what a difference.
Also we found that 400 ASA film or faster improved the detail for close up work.
Rich
If you are taking shots for a website, personally I would beg, borrow or steal a digital camera.
Generally I would agree with you - but not for building shots. Unless you're using the new $8,000 Canon, every digital camera out there decreases the effective field of view by nearly one third - not a good thing when you're shooting architecture. Stick with film and get a true wide angle view.
Also we found that 400 ASA film or faster improved the detail for close up work.
I have to (politely ;)) differ with you - the higher the ASA, the more grain becomes a factor. Not likely to come into play on a photo used on the web, but lower ASA results in finer detail.
Where the sunlight should be coming from to where I'm standing.
Behind you is best - behind your subject is worst.
Film type?
For the web, you will probably find that print (negative) film is fine, but for the ultimate in color saturation and fine grain, transparency (slide) film is the way to go.
I was wearing a pair of polarised sun glasses at the weekend and made an enquiry with a keen photographer friend of mine if polarised tinted lenses were available for cameras. Of course the answer was yes - She went on to explain that the effect created by reducing glare using this filter has many applications including architectural photos. The depth of the photo seems to increase and improves contrasts with reduced brightness. I would have a look at what this may do. (also the shades made everything (and every body) look really groovy baby!)
Also as mentioned before: wide angle - I took a picture off the top of the Empire State Building using a wide angle and slow shutter speed and have never taken a better photo :)
Another method to squeeze in long depths of field and loopy perspective would be to use a fisheye. but be careful not to over use this one - It has a habit of dominating 3/4 of you film and can be a bit cliched.
Ta
Liam
Expensive. But possibly rentable in your area.
T
If perspective is an issue, ie, pointy tops versus straight sides, you need to look at "perspective control" lenses.
Good advice for pros, but perhaps overkill when one of the questions asked by the poster is "Where should the sun be?" ;)
PC lenses would add a bit to the learning curve...
