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If your site can run PHP scripts, I found a script on HotScripts called phpCart. Same concept as Mal's, but the script is run locally. You would need to server secure pages if you went with a local solution.
I love Paypal too. We are using them as a temporary cart and the WebAssist DW MX plugin. I just wish you could add more options to the products and real shipping calculation.
Miva isn't search engine friendly in its native state, but there are multiple extra modules available, including one that's for pages to appear static. It also has capability for affiliate programs and a feature a lot of them lack, which is keeping inventory, which can be an important factor with items of limited quantity or that can easily run out.
There are hosts that come with Miva included for about $40-50 a month, and it's possible that those can be made static with mod_rewrite.
Big waste of money IMHO but some people go for it.